The Ready4Trade Central Asia Project, financed by the European Union and implemented by ITC, completed a series of awareness-raising workshops on gender-responsive trade facilitation in Tajikistan. The workshops were held across the country over the course of the month of August: Dushanbe (10 August 2021), Khujand (13 August 2021), Khorugh (20 August) and Bokhtar (27 August).
The workshops were designed for Tajik border officials in close cooperation with the Tajikistan Customs Service and the National Association of Tajik Businesswomen.
As explained by the Trade Facilitation Programme Officer at ITC, Ms. Alina Fetisova, who designed the trainings: “the objective is to allow trade policymakers, customs officers, and border officials understand why facilitating trade for women is important, while highlighting some of the constraints that women face when engaging in international trade. The workshops will also provide recommendations to enhance women participation in trade and to create conducive border environment through trade facilitation reforms”.
Some 100 local officials from state agencies participated in the workshops. Sessions were delivered by local customs experts. These experts were first trained by ITC to further disseminate the information they learned with their colleagues in various Tajik customs administrations and other relevant trade agencies.
Nilufar Haidarshoeva, customs officer from the Kuhistoni Badakhshon Autonomous Province, says that the training helped her to expand knowledge on problems, female entrepreneurs face during cross-border trade: “It was especially useful to learn the statistics showed in presentations. It was also interesting to watch the videos and receive practical advices on how to work with women, who are engaged in cross-border trade».
Parviz Yusufov, customs officer from the Sughd province, adds: “The training was helpful to raise awareness on gender issues. After this training, we realized that there are many problems that need to be conveyed to others and to be addressed to jointly find solutions”.
The series of trainings came after earlier consultations with governmental entities, business associations and private sector representatives in Central Asia. Findings showed that there is a strong demand for gender-focused activities in the area of trade, especially for cross-border trade.
Ms. Silvia Pietropaolo from the regional delegation of the EU to Central Asia, highlights: “We believe that addressing women-specific challenges in cross border trade is essential to achieve women economic empowerment and to mainstream gender across the whole policy spectrum”.
As highlighted by Mr. Pierre Bonthonneau, Trade Facilitation Adviser at ITC: “Free-trade agreements (FTAs) are not gender-neutral and policymakers should factor in the specific needs of women when it comes to negotiating FTAs. Gender-sensitive policy hasn’t reached the area of trade facilitation yet. Therefore, raising awareness among border officials on these challenges and providing concrete recommendations for better gender inclusion at the border is crucial to improve the experience of women traders. These workshops were a very important step in this direction”.
Stay connected: #Ready4Trade #CentralAsia
With the project ‘Ready4Trade Central Asia’, the European Union (EU) and the International Trade Centre (ITC) are joining forces to contribute to the overall sustainable and inclusive economic development of Central Asia by boosting intra-regional and international trade in the region. Beneficiaries of the Ready4Trade Central Asia project include governments, micro, small and medium-sized enterprises (MSMEs), in particular women-led enterprises, and Business Support Organizations (BSOs). The project operates in five countries: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. More information: intracen.org/Ready4Trade
Проект Ready4Trade Центральная Азия, финансируемый Европейским Союзом и реализуемый Международным Торговым Центром, завершила серию семинаров по повышению осведомленности о содействии торговле с учетом гендерных аспектов в Таджикистане. Семинары проводились по всей стране в течение августа: Душанбе (10 августа 2021 года), Худжанд (13 августа 2021 года), Хорог (20 августа) и Бохтар (27 августа).
Семинары были разработаны для сотрудников пограничных служб Таджикистана в тесном сотрудничестве с Таможенной службой страны и Национальной ассоциацией деловых женщин Таджикистана.
Алина Фетисова, специалист МТЦ по содействию торговле, которая разработала программы тренингов, объясняет: «Целью инициативы является повышение осведомленности лиц, принимающих решение, а также таможенников и пограничников о важности поддержки женщин в международной торговле. Мы поднимаем вопросы о вызовах, с которыми сталкиваются женщины – предприниматели. На тренингах также мы представили рекомендации по расширению участия женщин в торговле и созданию для этого благоприятной среды посредством запуска реформ по упрощению процедур торговли».
В целом, в четырех семинарах приняли участие около 100 сотрудников соответствующих местных государственных органов. В качестве тренеров были привлечены обученные местные таможенники.
Нилуфар Хайдаршоева, инспектор регионального таможенного управления в ГБАО, уверена, что тренинг помог им расширить свои знания о проблемах, с которыми сталкиваются женщины в трансграничной торговле: «Особенно было полезным узнать статистические данные, которые приводились в презентациях. Также было интересно посмотреть видеоматериалы и получить практические советы по тому, как нужно вести себя с женщинами, которые занимаются приграничной торговлей».
Парвиз Юсуфов, инспектор таможенного поста в Согдийской области, добавляет: «Данный тренинг актуален для повышения уровня знаний по гендерным вопросам. После данного тренинга мы поняли, что есть много проблем, которые нужно донести до других и найти решение этих проблем».
Серия тренингов была запрограммирована в результате ранее проведенных консультаций с государственными структурами, бизнес-ассоциациями и представителями частного сектора в Центральной Азии. Итоги данных консультаций показали, что существует большой спрос на гендерно-ориентированную деятельность в области торговли, особенно во время трансграничной торговли.
Сильвия Пьетропаоло, представитель региональной делегации ЕС в Центральной Азии, подчеркивает: «Мы считаем, что решение проблем женщин в трансграничной торговле необходимо для расширения экономических прав и возможностей женщин и учета гендерных аспектов во всем спектре политики».
Пьер Бонтонно, советник МТЦ по вопросам упрощения процедур торговли: «Соглашения о свободной торговле (ССТ) не являются нейтральными с гендерной точки зрения, и директивные органы должны учитывать особые потребности женщин, когда речь идет о переговорах по ССТ. Гендерная политика еще не достигла области упрощения процедур торговли. Таким образом, повышение осведомленности сотрудников пограничных служб об этих проблемах и предоставление конкретных рекомендаций по улучшению гендерной интеграции на границе имеет решающее значение для улучшения опыта женщин-торговцев. Эти семинары стали очень важным шагом в этом направлении».
Оставайтесь на связи: #Ready4Trade #CentralAsia
В рамках проекта Ready4Trade Central Asia, Европейский Союз (ЕС) и Международный торговый центр (МТЦ) объединяют усилия, чтобы внести свой вклад в общее устойчивое и инклюзивное экономическое развитие Центральной Азии путем стимулирования внутрирегиональной и международной торговли в регионе. Проект Ready4Trade Central Asia поддерживает правительства, малые и средние предприятия (МСП), в частности, предприятия, возглавляемые женщинами, и организации поддержки бизнеса. Проект действует в пяти странах: Казахстане, Кыргызстане, Таджикистане, Туркменистане и Узбекистане. Более подробно: intracen.org/Ready4Trade
Ҳайати Тоҷикистон рӯзи 12-уми август бо сафари корӣ дар шаҳри Тошкант, пойтахти Ӯзбекистони ҳамсоя, қарор дошт. Намояндагони шаш ниҳоди дахлдори давлатӣ, ду иттиҳодияи тиҷоратӣ ва ду ширкати нақлиётӣ шомили ҳайат буданд.
Дар ҷараёни сафар, намояндагони Тоҷикистон бо ҳамтоёни маҳаллияшон вохӯрданд. Онҳо, ҳамчунин, аз терминалҳои гумрукӣ ва сохторҳои дигари марбут ба тиҷорати фаромарзӣ бо ҳадафи шиносоӣ бо таҷриба ва фаъолияти маҳаллӣ ва роҳандозии ҳамкории наздиктар дидан карданд.
Мақсад аз ин сафар шиносоӣ бо таҷрибаи фаъолияти терминалҳои гумрукӣ ва ниҳодҳои дигари тиҷорати марзӣ дар Ҷумҳурии Ӯзбекистон, ҳамчунин, барқарорсозии тамосҳои корӣ миёни сохторҳои соҳавии ду кишвар бо ҳадафи беҳтар кардани хидматрасониҳои гумрукӣ буд.
Ин барнома ибтикори муштараки Вазорати рушди иқтисод ва савдои Тоҷикистон ва Маркази тиҷорати байнулмилалӣ буда, дар чаҳорчӯбаи Барномаи ҷаҳонии нассоҷӣ ва дӯзандагии МТБ, ки аз ҷониби Ҳукумати Швейтсария маблағгузорӣ мегардад, пиёда гардид. Лоиҳаи Ready4Trade Осиёи Марказӣ, ки аз ҷониби МТБ амалӣ ва аз ҷониби Иттиҳоди Аврупо маблағгузорӣ мешавад, дар ҳамоҳангии ин сафар ҳамчун як иқдоми минтақавӣ иштирок кард. Ниҳодҳои давлатии Ҷумҳурии Ӯзбекистон – Вазорати корҳои хориҷӣ, Вазорати сармоягузорӣ ва тиҷорати беруна, ва Кумитаи давлатии гумрук дар амалӣ шудани ин сафар нақши муҳим доштанд. Иттиҳодияҳои брокерони гумрукии ҳар ду ҷумҳурӣ низ дар роҳандозии ин ибтикор саҳм гирифтанд.
Ҳайати Тоҷикистон аз дидбонгоҳи гумрукии «Арк-Булак ВЭД» ва терминали гумрукии ширкати хусусии ҶСК «Highway Logistics Center», воқеъ дар Тошкант, дидан карданд ва бо зерсохтору фаъолияти онҳо шинос шуданд.
Фирӯза Маҳмудова, Раиси Иттиҳоди брокерони гумрукии Тоҷикистон, мегӯяд: «Бо назардошти афзоиши муносибатҳои тиҷоратӣ миёни Тоҷикистону Ӯзбекистон, боло бурдани сатҳи огаҳӣ аз равандҳои назорати гумрукӣ дар кишвари ҳамсоя ҳам барои содирот ва ҳам барои воридот ба Тоҷикистон муҳим аст. Иловатан, ин ибтикор барои иттиҳодияҳои тиҷоратӣ ва сохторҳои давлатии Тоҷикистон низ муфид мебошад. Доираҳои тиҷоратии кишвари мо аз донишҳои нав баҳра бардошта, таҷрибаи пешқадамро барои беҳтар кардани иқтидори тиҷоратии кишвар метавонанд истифода баранд».
Саидмӯъмин Камолов, раҳбари дафтари МТБ дар Тоҷикистон, мегӯяд: «Сафари мазкур боз як қадами муҳим барои омӯзиш ва коргирӣ аз таҷрибаи замонавии тиҷорати фаромарзӣ ва соддагардонии расмиёти савдо дар сатҳи минтақавӣ ва байналмилалӣ мебошад».
Дар бораи барномаи GTEX
Барномаи нассоҷӣ ва дӯзандагии Маркази тиҷорати байналмилалӣ (GTEX) – барномаи чаҳорсола буда, аз ҷониби Ҳукумати Швейтсария маблағгузорӣ мегардад. Дар доираи он ба ширкатҳои нассоҷӣ ва дӯзандагӣ дар Осиёи Марказӣ (Қирғизистон ва Тоҷикистон) ва Ховари Миёна ва Африқои Шимолӣ (Миср, Марокаш ва Тунис) кӯмак расонида мешавад. Ҳадафи барнома пешбурди содироти маҳсулоти нассоҷӣ ва дӯзандагӣ ва фароҳам овардани шароит барои дарёфти имкониятҳои даромад ва ҷойи кор дар тамоми занҷираи арзиш мебошад.
Дар бораи лоиҳаи Ready4Trade Осиёи Марказӣ
Бо роҳандозии лоиҳаи Ready4Trade Осиёи Марказӣ, Иттиҳоди Аврупо (ИА) ва Маркази тиҷорати байналмилалӣ (МТБ) ба иқдомҳо ҷиҳати саҳмгузорӣ ба рушди умумии устувор ва фарогири иқтисодӣ дар Осиёи Марказӣ бо роҳи тақвияти тиҷорати минтақавӣ ва байналмилалӣ ҳамроҳ мегарданд. Баҳрагирандагони лоиҳаи мазкур ҳукуматҳо, соҳибкории хурду миёна, махсусан, ширкатҳое, ки раҳбарашон занонанд, ва созмонҳои ёрирасони тиҷорат мебошанд. Лоиҳа дар панҷ кишвар: Қазоқистон, Қирғизистон, Тоҷикистон, Туркманистон, Узбекистон амал мекунад. Маълумоти бештар: intracen.org/Ready4Trade
On early morning of August 12, 2021, a Tajik delegation arrived in Tashkent, the capital of neighbouring Uzbekistan, for an intense one- day study tour.
The group is composed of representatives from six government agencies, two business associations, and two border transport companies. The Tajik officials and business representatives met with their Uzbek counterparts. They visited the country’s customs terminals and other border trade agencies to familiarize themselves with local experience and initiate closer cooperation.
The tour aimed for a learning experience of customs terminals and other border agencies in the Republic of Uzbekistan as well as establishing contacts between Tajik and Uzbek sectoral agencies for further cooperation to improve the services of local terminals.
The initiative was jointly organized by the Tajikistan Ministry of Economic Development and Trade and the International Trade Centre under the Swiss Government-funded Global Textiles and Clothing Programme (GTEX). Ready4Trade Central Asia project funded by the European Union supported coordination between two countries as a regional initiative. Uzbekistan Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ministry of Investments and Foreign Trade of the Republic of Uzbekistan, State Customs Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan played an important role in ensuring this study tour was possible. Association of Customs Brokers of Tajikistan, and Association of Customs Brokers of Uzbekistan also provided important assistance with necessary arrangements for the tour.
The Tajik delegation visited the customs point “Ark-Bulak” and customs terminal LLC “Highway Logistics Center”, located in Tashkent area and got acquainted with infrastructure and functioning of the Center and the customs point.
Firuza Mahmudova, Chairman of the Tajikistan Association of Customs Brokers, commented: “Considering the growing trade relations between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, better awareness of the neighbouring country’s customs procedures is crucial for both importing and exporting goods from Tajikistan. In addition, this initiative will uphold the work of national trade associations and government entities. The Tajik business can benefit from the knowledge and adopt best commercial practices to improve the domestic sector’s trade capacity”.
Furthermore, the Tajik delegation met in a round-table discussion representatives of related Uzbek government agencies, business associations, and private international trade transport and logistic companies in Tashkent. Both sides informed about the infrastructure development forecast aimed at boosting customs administration, transport logistics and transport corridors in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan respectively.
Saidmumin Kamolov, ITC National Programme Manager in Tajikistan, said: “This study tour served as another important step to learn and implement modern trade activities and simplify regulations on regional and international level”.
About the GTEX Programme
The International Trade Centre’s Global Textiles and Clothing Programme (GTEX) is a four-year programme funded by the Government of Switzerland. The GTEX programme provides support to Textile and Clothing (T&C) companies in Central Asia (Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan) and the Middle East and North Africa (Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia). The programme’s goal is to promote T&C exports and to stimulate employment and income generation along the value chain.
About Ready4Trade Central Asia project
The Ready4Trade Central Asia project is a joint initiative of the European Union and the International Trade Centre. Its aim is to contribute to the overall sustainable and inclusive economic development of Central Asia by boosting intra-regional and international trade in the region. Beneficiaries of the Ready4Trade Central Asia project include governments, small and medium-sized enterprises, in particular women-led enterprises, and Business Support Organizations. The project operates in 5 countries: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. More information: intracen.org/Ready4Trade
12 августа 2021 года делегация из Таджикистана посетила Ташкент, столицу соседнего Узбекистана, с интенсивным рабочим визитом.
Делегация состояла из представителей шести государственных ведомств, двух бизнес-ассоциаций и двух транспортных компаний. В ходе поездки, официальные лица Таджикистана и представители бизнеса встретились со своими узбекскими коллегами. Они также посетили таможенные терминалы и другие структуры приграничной торговли с целью ознакомления с местным опытом и налаживания более тесного сотрудничества.
Целью поездки было ознакомление с опытом работы таможенных терминалов и других пограничных служб в Республике Узбекистан, а также установление контактов между таджикскими и узбекскими отраслевыми структурами для дальнейшего сотрудничества.
Инициатива была совместно организована Министерством экономического развития и торговли Таджикистана и Международным торговым центром в рамках Глобальной текстильной и швейной программы (GTEX), финансируемой Правительством Швейцарии. Проект Ready4Trade Центральная Азия, финансируемый Европейским Союзом, поддержал координацию данной поездки между двумя странами, как региональную инициативу. Ведомства Республики Узбекистан, в частности, Министерство иностранных дел, Министерство инвестиций и внешней торговли, а также Государственный таможенный комитет сыграли важную роль в организации данной ознакомительной поездки. Ассоциации таможенных брокеров Таджикистана и Узбекистана также оказали важную помощь в организации тура.
Таджикская делегация посетила таможенный пост «Арк-Булак ВЭД» и таможенный терминал ООО «Highway Logistics Center», расположенные в Ташкентской области и ознакомилась с их инфраструктурой и функционированием.
Фируза Махмудова, председатель Ассоциации таможенных брокеров Таджикистана, прокомментировала: «Учитывая растущие торговые отношения между Таджикистаном и Узбекистаном, повышение осведомленности о таможенных процедурах соседней страны имеет решающее значение, как для импорта, так и для экспорта товаров из Таджикистана. Кроме того, данная инициатива будет полезной и для работы национальных торговых ассоциаций и государственных структур. Таджикский бизнес может извлечь выгоду из полученных новых знаний и перенять передовую практику для улучшения торгового потенциала страны».
Кроме того, таджикская делегация встретилась в рамках круглого стола в Ташкенте с представителями соответствующих государственных органов, бизнес-ассоциаций и частных международных торговых транспортных и логистических компаний Узбекистана. Стороны проинформировали друг друга о развитиях инфраструктуры, направленной на усиление таможенного администрирования, транспортной логистики и транспортных коридоров в обеих странах.
Саидмумин Камолов, национальный менеджер МТЦ в Республике Таджикистан, говорит: «Данная ознакомительная поездка послужила еще одним важным шагом для изучения и внедрения современной торговой деятельности и упрощения правил на региональном и международном уровне».
О программе GTEX
Глобальная текстильная и швейная программа Международного торгового центра (GTEX) — это четырехлетняя программа, финансируемая Правительством Швейцарии. Программа GTEX предоставляет поддержку текстильным и швейным компаниям в Центральной Азии (Кыргызстан и Таджикистан), а также на Ближнем Востоке и в Северной Африке (Египет, Марокко и Тунис). Цель программы – продвигать экспорт текстильной и швейной продукции и стимулировать занятость и получение доходов в цепочке создания стоимости.
О проекте Ready4Trade Центральная Азия
В рамках проекта Ready4Trade Central Asia, Европейский Союз (ЕС) и Международный торговый центр (МТЦ) объединяют усилия, чтобы внести свой вклад в общее устойчивое и инклюзивное экономическое развитие Центральной Азии путем стимулирования внутрирегиональной и международной торговли в регионе. Проект Ready4Trade Central Asia поддерживает правительства, малые и средние предприятия (МСП), в частности, предприятия, возглавляемые женщинами, и организации поддержки бизнеса. Проект действует в пяти странах: Казахстане, Кыргызстане, Таджикистане, Туркменистане и Узбекистане. Более подробно: intracen.org/Ready4Trade
В разделе экспорта текстильных материалов Таджикистана, основная часть приходится на хлопок-волокно. При этом сумма экспорта текстильных материалов и изделий из них за первое полугодие текущего года увеличилась в 1,5 раза.
Статистические данные об экспорте этой продукции свидетельствуют о том, что порядка 70% из указанной суммы приходится на продажу за рубеж сырьевого хлопка-волокна. По данным источника, за январь-июнь этого года сумма экспорта текстильных материалов и изделий из них составила $110 млн. 927,4 тыс., что в 1,5 раза больше показателя аналогичного периода 2020 года. $74 млн. 299 тыс. из указанной суммы составляет выручка от продажи хлопка-волокна при росте в 1,6 раза.
В тоже время, сумма импорта текстильных материалов и изделий из них за этот период составила более $42,9 млн. при росте 27%. Импорт готовой текстильной продукции осуществляется с высокой добавленной стоимостью.
Russian State Museum of Oriental Art (Gosudarstvennyi Muzei Vostoka) has an extensive collection of Central Asian suzani—a type of richly embroidered textile that once served as wedding embroidery to protect the bride and groom from hostile forces, as well as attract good luck. The floral and vegetal patterns that young girls stitched on white canvas for their future dowries symbolized their hope for a new and better life of love and beauty.
Embroidery is one of the most ancient and revered forms of decorative art among the peoples of Central Asia. Especially prized was silk embroidery, which first appeared on the territory of modern Uzbekistan in the 4th – 5th centuries AD. Central Asian embroidery is first mentioned in the diary of the Castilian envoy Ruy Gonzalez de Clavijo, who visited the court of Timur in 1404. He was impressed by the emir’s palaces, essentially tents made of and embroidered with silk, gold, and silver threads.
Author
Vera Myasina
Senior researcher, Caucasus, Central Asia, Siberia and Far North Department of the Russian State Museum of Oriental Arts, curator of the “Textiles of the Caucasus and Central Asia” fund. Specializes in textiles and embroideries of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.
The art of embroidery never ceased to exist, passed down by generations of hardworking needlewomen. By the 19th century, suzani (Tajik “needle-sewn,” “needle-shaped”)—large embroidered panels intended for the bride’s dowry—became popular among the region’s farmers, namely Tajiks and sedentary Uzbeks.
Every family made embroidered covers and hangings before the wedding of their daughter. These varied in size and purpose: a large suzani might cover the newlyweds’ bed or a wedding bedsheet, a smaller one might serve as a case for pillows, another might be used as a prayer rug or curtains for room niches. Beautiful embroidery in mesmerizing patterns was the prime decoration for the wedding ceremony and had deep symbolism in the newlyweds’ room.
Unlike gold sewing, where all work was done by men, silk needlework was a women’s craft. As soon as a girl was born, the mother began to collect her dowry, and later the grown-up daughter joined in the needlework, making large embroidered pieces and a variety of dresses and robes intended for her wedding celebration. The composition of the dowry changed depending on the locality and the wealth of the parents. If the family did not have time to prepare the necessary embroidery, the bride’s mother could ask for the help of relatives, neighbors, or girlfriends at a chokduzon (literally “sewing tailor-made”), an event devoted to completing the work quickly together.
Suzani played an important role in the wedding ceremony: the bride could be wrapped in it or it could be held over her like a canopy while leading the groom to the house. The place where the bride was seated during the wedding was fenced off with a curtain—not a plain piece of textile but a rich suzani. The entire space where the celebration took place was hung with many embroideries and carpets. After the wedding, suzani remained the main decoration of the newlyweds’ room. Embroidered covers and hangings decorated living rooms not only on holidays, but also on weekdays. They hung over wall niches to hide bedding items and the walls between them during the day. The wall opposite the windows was decorated with the largest hangings, sometimes combined with small ones.
Production
Until the end of the 19th century, embroiderers used silk threads colored with natural dyes, which gave them deep, soft, unique tones. Handmade white cotton fabric (karbos), woven from local threads, served as the base. The patterns were drawn by a specially invited draftswoman (kalamkash), a craft passed down from mother to daughter in a mandatory rite of passage. She would draw the contours of the ornamentation by hand with a sharpened reed pen (kalam).
After the pattern was drawn on, the narrow strips of fabric would be embroidered separately. Only after the completion of the work were they sewn together into a single panel. Therefore, in finished products, the pattern at the seams often does not line up and the details are embroidered with threads of different shades, since different artisans did the embroidery.
Kalamkash had to memorize a large number of ornaments. Sketches and patterns were collected in albums. In the process, new versions of old patterns and compositions would be created. Some of them would become popular and fashionable. The most beloved and most frequently used of the traditional stitches were several varieties of one-sided stitching and chain stitch. The embroidery technique allowed the craftswomen to create textures that gave extraordinary artistic expression to every embroidered piece, from a luxurious cover to a modest skullcap.
The Collection
The Russian State Museum of Oriental Art has a significant collection of large wedding covers and hangings from the 19th and 20th centuries. The collection, numbering over 270 samples, includes ancient embroidery from all the key centers of this art form: Bukhara, Nurata, Shakhrisabz, Samarkand, Tashkent, and Khojent. The patterns of the suzani were predominantly floral/vegetal and often richly filled the entire visible surface of the fabric, which included a central field and a border.
The famous Bukhara embroidery was distinguished by its regal and amazing decoration—no wonder, as Bukhara was a wealthy city. The inner chambers of the houses of the aristocracy were also decorated with tiles and picturesque paintings on ganch, as well as magnificent Persian carpets, which were highly valued in local markets. Bukhara embroidery was no less luxurious.
The clearest example of this style is the pillow cover (takyapush) shown in Figure 1. Its most recognizable decorative features are luxurious and varied terracotta-crimson rosettes framed by graceful vegetation. Such rosettes are very typical of Bukhara. Bukhara suzani are breathtaking, with incredibly imaginative detail and decoration; compositions are often divided into concentric circles, sectors, stars, flowers and complex figures.
Figure 1. A cover for pillows and blankets (takyapush), Bukhara, Uzbekistan, mid-19th century, State Museum of Oriental Art
Suzani from Nurata (Figure 2), a large village on the border with the steppe that was part of the Bukhara Emirate, are also worthy of attention. In the 19th century, some of the best embroidery in the region came from Nurata. One of the main features of local covers is airy patterns, not overcrowded by dense decorations, with finely embroidered flower branches and bouquets. The sample below stands out for its beautifully balanced ornament that has become the hallmark of local embroidery: a flower star in the center and unusually lush, large bouquets-bushes in the corners of the field. This composition is known as chor shokh u yak moh (“four branches and one moon”). In addition to detailed floral and vegetal patterns, embroidered images of household items—namely, jugs hidden among the “rays” of the star and bouquets—catch the eye. The water jug (aftoba) motif was a favorite one, symbolizing the purity and ritual ablutions prescribed by Islam, as well as life-giving fluids.
Figure 2. Suzani, Nurata, Uzbekistan, 19th century, State Museum of Oriental Art
Covers and hangings from Shakhrisabz, with their white background, were undoubtedly heavily influenced by the aforementioned two cities, replicating in many respects their patterns and motifs. Local craftswomen also preferred the motifs of rosettes, palmettes, and sometimes blooming bouquets. But Shakhrisabz embroideries had their own features too. On the suzani below (Figure 3), we see big, bright orange rosettes with a detailed core and palmettes framed by wide leafy rings. They decorate the entire space of the central field. The border that frames the pattern—known as chor-chirog (“a lamp with four wicks”) is very typical of this city. This pattern undoubtedly goes back to Zoroastrianism, where the lamp symbolized a sacred fire. In folk art, it is the strongest amulet and symbolizes protection and purification. Indeed, in the wedding ceremony, it was fire that purified, dispersed the darkness, and guarded the newlyweds.
Figure 3. Suzani, Shakhrisabz, Uzbekistan, second half of 19th century, State Museum of Oriental Art
The pillow cover from Samarkand (Figure 4) clearly demonstrates the main stylistic features of this craft center. Unlike the suzani of Bukhara, Nurata, and Shakhrisabz, with their certain elitism, the embroidery of Samarkand gravitated more toward folk traditions. This was due to the difficult political and economic situation in Samarkand throughout the 18th century. The old artistic tradition was interrupted and a new one arose from scratch in the 19th century, focusing on a wider stratum of the population and reflecting fairly mundane tastes. The style of Samarkand is a distinct and laconic pattern; there is no room for unnecessary details. As we can see, large round rosettes of a cold pomegranate-crimson hue framed by rather wide turquoise-green shoots are lined up both on the field and on the border in an ornament already familiar to us from Shakhrisabz: chor-chirog, which was also very popular in Samarkand. Thanks to precisely selected colors, the Samarkand craftswomen achieved a clear and articulate composition, even if the motifs themselves were nothing unusual and their drawing was somewhat angular. Nevertheless, this gave local embroidery its own unique look.
Figure 4. A cover for pillows (bolinpush), Samarkand, Uzbekistan, mid–second half of 19th century, State Museum of Oriental ArtFigure 5. Palak, Tashkent, Uzbekistan, second half of 19th century, State Museum of Oriental Art
Wedding suzani from Tashkent bore the local name palak (from the Arabic falak—”sky”) and were known for their laconic geometric decor. Without a doubt, their decorative features are so unique that they immediately attract attention and stand out from all other artistic embroidery of Uzbekistan.
Huge dark red circles, called oy (“moon”) densely fill the entire visible space of the central field, creating the main pattern of Tashkent embroidery. The palak showcased at the State Museum of Oriental Art (Figure 5), where non-ornamented rosettes are lined up in two rows, was the most popular type of local suzani in the 19th century. Such embroideries, with many rows of rosettes-circles, were known according to the number of such circles: palak with six moons, palak with twelve moons, etc.
The name palak (“sky” or “firmament”) is quite telling. These large round rosettes were associated with the moon’s femininity, but also with fire, stars, and the sun. Craftswomen believed that such ornaments would provide magical protection for newlyweds, as well as bestow good offspring on them, as the celestial bodies also possessed power over fertility.
Suzani from Khojent (Figure 6), a city located on the territory of Northern Tajikistan, are in terms of style and composition very close to the embroidery from Tashkent. This similarity is expressed in strict rows of rosettes-circles in a wide leafy frame. But on closer inspection, the distinctive features become more noticeable: a rosette-star in the center; large floral palmettes, very popular here; and a much greater variety of floral and vegetal forms. The main feature of these suzani is their color, a combination of a calm, cold burgundy-purple for the rosettes and black-dark blue for the palmettes of vegetal crowns.
As mentioned above, almost all of the presented suzani have vegetal ornaments. Their lush decor was undoubtedly associated in the minds of the craftswomen with the idea of the abundance of life and the splendor of nature, but it also expressed the folk idea of the Garden of Eden. But above all, these wedding embroideries were supposed to protect the bride and groom from hostile forces and attract good luck. Floral and vegetal patterns hid rich symbolic content: many of them were considered a sign of fertility or served as magical protection. Equally important was the white background of the suzani on which the ornaments were embroidered, because according to ancient tradition, white carried protection and ensured the future well-being of the young couple.
Figure 6. Suzani, Khujand, Northern Tajikistan, second half of 19th century, State Museum of Oriental Art
To complement the patterns, which were filled with ancient magic, craftswomen tried to increase the magical power of embroidery in other ways. Often, the finished suzani had misshapen contours or blank spaces, as though someone had accidentally forgotten to embroider there. But the astucious craftswomen deliberately made this “mistake” to protect against the evil eye. In any case, in the 19th and early 20th centuries, suzani were a necessary component of the life of any woman. Weddings and holidays could not be held without them and it was impossible to imagine decorating a living room without them.
All photos by Russian State Museum of Oriental Art
Фарзона ҳоло 13 соли таҷриба дар соҳаи аудит, 14 соли таҷриба дар соҳаи тренерӣ ва 18 соли таҷриба дар соҳаи мудирияти тиҷорат ва лоиҳаҳоро дорост. Созмонҳои гуногуни байналмилалӣ ва ширкатҳои ватанӣ пайваста ӯро барои иҷрои барномаҳо ва фаъолияташон ҷалб месозанд.
– Дарк кардам, ки барои фаҳмидани он ки соҳибкорон чи ҳис мекунанд ва барои фаҳмидани фазо аз дохил, бояд худам ҳам соҳиби тиҷорат бошам. Он замон фазо барои хидматрасониҳои машваратӣ дар Тоҷикистон холӣ буд ва бовар доштам, ки дар ин ҷода метавонам тағйирот ворид созам ва хидматҳоям харидор хоҳанд ёфт. «Камолот 1» ҳамин гуна таваллуд шуд, барои ёрӣ ба ширкатҳо ва созмонҳо дар истифодаи роҳу услубҳои замонавии мудирият, ба василае, ки ба ҳадафҳои стратегии онҳо ва вижагиҳои онҳо рост ояд, – иброз дошт бонуи пештоз.
Ба ин васила ӯ ба соҳибкорони маҳаллӣ мефаҳмонд, ки онҳо танҳо бо роҳи пешниҳоди хидматрасониҳои нав ва содироти хидматрасониву маҳсулоташон метавонанд пеш раванд. Ҳар мушкиле, ки дар сари роҳашон мебарояд, бояд бидонанд, ки ҳамаи ин мушкилот ҳалшавандаанд. «Камолот 1» на танҳо ба дили муштариёнаш боварӣ овард, балки барои аз миён бардоштани монеаҳо низ ёрӣ мерасонд.
Бо ин вуҷуд, роҳ ба сӯи пирӯзиҳо барои «Камолот 1» ҳамвор набуд. Сарфи назар аз бозори дастнорасида ва набудани рақобат, барои лоиҳаҳои машваратӣ гузариш аз назорати чандмарҳилаӣ ва дарёфти муштарӣ барои хадамоти консалтингӣ душвор буд. Вале бо такя ба матонат ва итминони мутахассисони баландпоя ва бо дарки пурраи вижагиҳои минтақа, «Камолот 1» ба зудӣ дар Осиёи Марказӣ мавқеи худро ёфт. Феҳристи муштариёни ширкат дар давраҳои гуногун аз хидматрасониҳои омӯзишӣ ва бехатарӣ , корхонаҳои саноати сабук ва вазнин, ширкатҳои соҳаи хӯрокворӣ ва ғайра иборат буд. Аввалин муштарии «Камолот 1» пас аз мусоидати Фарзона ҷиҳати дарёфти ҳуҷҷатҳои зарурии байналмилалӣ , як қарордоди 18 -миллиондоллара имзо карда буд.
Намуна барои дигарон
Саидмуъмин Камолов, раҳбари дафтари Маркази тиҷорати байналмилалӣ дар Тоҷикистон, мегӯяд: «Барои рушди соҳибкории хурду миёна дастрасии беҳтар ба хадамоти машваратӣ муҳим аст. Маркази мазкур дар ин ҷода яке аз созмонҳои калидӣ маҳсуб ёфта, беш аз бист сол мешавад, ки чораҳои муҳимро дар ин замина амалӣ мегардонад. Фарзона дар ин самт ҳамеша моро ҳамроҳӣ карду мекунад. Ҳадафи мо сохтани соҳибкории қавӣ , боэътимод ва тавоно дар кишвар ва бренди маъруфу шинохта гардидани навиштаҷоти «Истеҳсоли Тоҷикистон» мебошад».
Фарзона на танҳо намоди воқеии қолабшикан гардидани зан дар ҷомеаи аз нигоҳи фарҳангӣ мардсолор мебошад, балки ӯ боз ҷавонзанҳои дигарро низ омӯзиш медиҳад, ки чи гуна дар бозори кор ҷойгоҳи худро ёбанд ва онҳоро ба соҳаи худ низ ҷалб мекунад.
Яке аз ҳамкорони ӯ Малика Маҳкамова, ҳамин гуна, стандарти байналмилалии HACCP – ро дар 5 ширкат, дар Африқо ҷорӣ карда буд. Фарзона бар ин бовар аст, ки як зани таҳсилдида ҳангоме ки ба соҳибкорӣ шуғл меварзад, ба зиндагӣ ва кор аз нигоҳи гендерӣ назар андӯхта, бояд барои занони дигар ҳам ҷойи кор ва имконият фароҳам созад. Аз ин рӯ, худи ӯ ба даҳҳо зан маҳорати раҳбарӣ ва мудириятро, аз ҷумла дар чаҳорчӯбаи лоиҳаи Ready4Trade тамрин додааст. Ин лоиҳа ба тавонмандсозии бонувони раҳбару соҳибкор таваҷҷуҳи махсус зоҳир месозад. Машварати асосии Фарзона ба занону духтарони тоҷик ҳаммаънои номи ӯ дар забони тоҷикист (фарзона – донову хирадманд):
